VFO and Amplifiers Testing


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The VFO board is tested without the Tuning Capacitor installed. This is done so the capacitor does not get banged around or makes Board 1 too heavy to easily complete soldering of the rest of the board.

The Tuning Capacitor will be installed at the completion of Section 3. Only a touch up of the frequencies will be needed after the Tuning Capacitor is installed.

Testing at this point makes it easy to correct mistakes on the VFO board that will be hidden after the Tuning Capacitor is installed.

The VFO is the most important part of the receiver and the most complicated with all its relays and three frequencies, so spending special attention to this section makes further diagnosis of the receiver easier.

Frequency Counter

A Frequency Counter, either your own bench Frequency Counter or the one you purchased with the kit, will be needed to test the VFO. A general coverage receiver with reasonable calibration can also be used by attaching 2' or more of wire to the "VFO OUT" connection within range of the antenna connection to the receiver. Make sure the signal from the VFO can be heard.

If you have purchased the LED Frequency Counter, this would be a good time to build the Frequency Counter kit. Go to Over the counter similar to valtrex page for instructions.

After the kit is finished, short the "Osc In" to "Gnd" on the board so it will work as a regular counter. Use the "VFO In" and "Gnd" to make the measurements. This setup is shown in Step 12 of the Frequency Counter Construction.

The following procedure will set up the receiver for the first 130 kHz CW portion of the 40 and 20 meter bands of the receiver. The 14 MHz VFO, with a 180 KHz range, will cover all the 30 and 17 meter bands.

See Generic drugstore website if you want to tune the SSB portion of the 40 and 20 meter bands.

To have the 40 and 20 Meter VFO cover the entire band, see the Circuit Details, Tesla Oscillator, "Modifying Bandwidths".

Making Connections

See Order prozac online canada for making easy connections to the board for testing and completing the board.

Place these loops at the 12 Volts and Ground connections and at the VFO OUT and smaller Ground box. Note the picture below:

Be careful with polarity reversal. The 10mfd tantalums may blow up and some traces may be burned going to the 7805. Use diode protection if a mistake might be made in connecting the board to 12 Volts.

Solder a 1 amp diode, 1N4001 or similar, to the 12 volt main connection (band goes to 12 Volt connection) to prevent accidentally hooking up the receiver with reverse polarity. (This diode is not currently supplied with the kit.) The diode will block current from traveling the wrong way to the board.

Testing the LEDs

Connect a wire from the "Stabilizer In" connection to ground, or hook onto the tab of the 7805 as shown in the picture below. Without the ground connection the frequency will not be stable. The frequency should drift slowly in one direction, but not be varying quickly up and down - this is due to 60 Hz energy being picked up by the varicaps when they are not grounded or biased by 5 or so volts.

Connect a frequency counter to the VFO OUT and the small Ground connections. Connect 12 Volts and ground to the 12 Volts (or protection diode) and Ground boxes.

With the shop light shining on the board, all the LEDs should light. The frequency counter should be reading around 11 MHz, plus or minus 1 MHz.

If the LED next to the 10.455 relay is dim (one at the far left), point a shop light to the dark colored Photodiode and the LED should show the same brightness as the other LEDs.

The dark color of the Photodiode filters out visible light so it will not be as sensitive as the Phototransistor between the VFO Amplifiers. An incandescent light will easily have enough IR to turn on the Photodiode. Dim sunlight will not work and neither will LED Flashlights (unless they are InfraRed).

Measure the voltage at the large RF Choke, the text VFO should be right next to it, and check to see the voltage is near or at 8 to 9 Volts on both sides of the choke.

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Cut a 1 1/2" piece of Black Shrink tubing supplied with the kit in Bag 6. This will be used to block light to the Photodiode and Phototransistor when needed to set frequencies.

First, the 14.000 MHz VFO Frequency

Place the black tubing over the Phototransistor located between the VFO amplifiers so both LEDs are turned off at the relays - 10.545 and 10.455. See picture above. Be aware that a strong light shinning on the back of the Phototransistor will also turn it on, so if the tubing doesn't turn off the LEDs cover the back side of the Phototransistor also.

Adjust the ceramic 2/8 trimmer to the frequency shown in the picture (14.468 or so). Adding the tuning capacitor will drop the 14.000 MHz VFO frequency by 400 kHz, so it is set 400 kHz high, When the stabilizer is used, the metal adjustment screw on the 2/8 ceramic trimmer is not grounded. When using a metal screwdriver, calculate how much it changes the frequency when you touch the adjustment screw and adjust accordingly.

Spread apart or squeeze the windings on the VFO toroid to help reach the frequency. Try to get the setting with the 2/8 ceramic trimmer near its middle position. Line up the slot in the adjustment screw with the